Berlin: Summer Nights

Some say that Berlin Nights should be spent and not remembered. Mine tend to be unforgettable. Take this one for example, a stroll into a stressful streetfood Thursday at the Markthalle in Kreuzberg, zooming across town to the Hasenheide, dodging through the drug deals in the woody corners until we come to the open air cinema. There we huddle together under sweaters and anoraks, hugging our Club Mates and Fritz Kolas between our fingers and sneaking a cute sized packet of gummibears over and under our elbows until everyone is satisfied. The film is Wim Wenders Wings of Desire. Weird, atmospheric, moving and totally Berlin. It's one of those films that lingers on into the night, as you wander back through the now rather sinister feeling Hasenheide to the Fotoautomat opposite the bus stop and attempt to take two rolls of photos before the bus arrives to take you home. It's whimsy and disorientating and yet you ride the top of the bus as light as a feather, realising that, for the first time in a long time, you are quite deliriously happy. 

Berlin: Breakfast

Berlin is a breakfast city. Unfortunately I wasn't there over the weekend so had to forgo the infamously reasonable sunday brunch experience. Nevertheless, Lotte and I spent a rather delicious morning in Kreuzberg, popping in and out of bookshops, dancing over the shadows on the pavement, taking photos in one of the €2 Fotoautomaten and finally ending up at Gipfeltreffen just across from Gorlitzer Bahnhof.  The cafe has a really open and light interior, with loads of little kooky details. It's one of those places that caters to the need for space and solitude but could also provide an equally wonderful space for friends to meet up. The menu was pretty broad, I ordered yogurt with fruit because it felt too hot to order anything else. It was absolutely delicious and beautifully presented. Next time I'm in Berlin, I'd like to return here to check out their evening menu and OF COURSE their coffee. 

Berlin: The Apartment

At the start of August I hopped spontaneously onto a plane for quick mini-break to Berlin. One of the reasons was to visit my friends Babsi and Lotte, two of the 'cheese-fondue girls' who had both returned to the city for the Summer. The other reason was to see Babsi's new Kreuzberg apartment, which was everything a dreamy Berliner could wish for. It became the centrepiece of the trip. The morning coffees, the midday peace in the rocking chair by the window, the afternoon pause to read Die Zeit, the evening dinner parties with homemade Hugos, the nighttime scampering across the wooden floorboards and the bathroom that plays Kulturradio as soon as you flick the light switch, felt like a secret world hidden amongst the leaves of the courtyard. It's rare that you find such peace in the middle of the city. I like homes that feel like art without being fragile. I want to create a space like that for myself and for all those whose lives swirl around me. 

A Morning in Prenzlauerberg

It's hard to imagine what Berlin is going to be like in the Spring when it's 3am and you're stood on Bakerstreet in London waiting for the Easybus and talking to very friendly Swedish girls. It always amazes me how one little plane journey can transform your surroundings so dramatically. I landed in a warm, sunny Berlin and headed straight for my favourite coffee place to catch my breath and ground myself in the fact that I was back in the city that I love.  I mean, I was technically in town for research, but everyone needs to have a break from the humdrum of the quotidian to drink good coffee in the sunshine and walk slow around Prenzlauerberg with their new camera snap snap snapping away.  People often ask me where the best places are to go in Berlin, because most people end up stuck in the centre and feel like they're missing the point. The truth is, there are so many places and everyone has their little preferences, but if you want to feel part of the buzz then take the U2 to Elberswalderstrasse or U8 to Moritzplatz and discover where your own favourite hangouts. If that's too scary then here's a list of my favourite places

Travel on Film

My final set of year abroad film photographs arrived. Unfortunately I still had the aperture on the wrong setting for most of these snaps, but I've learned to love the grainy look. ENJOY before I get nostalgic and weep into my keyboard. 

Sipping a morning Coffee at The Broken Arm on our first day in Paris. 

Moody shots of a melancholy yet romantic city.

Fresh apricots, rolling hills, mediterranean shutters and the breathtaking South of France sunsets.

Stranded in Strasbourg for 18 hours: coffee and exploring in solitude. 

Frolicking through the German vineyards, eating ice cream in Bretton and those long lazy conversations with Franzi.

The final days in Berlin: Cocktails in Neukölln, hugs at church and Polish Vodka and Minoltas in the apartment. 

Year Abroad Tips: Planning a Work Placement

So you're about to start planning your Year Abroad and you're totally freaking out because it seems like a mammoth task or maybe you're all cool and serene. Whatever. This is a little blog about work placements, how to get them, what to prepare for and what to do if things go wrong. 

1) Do something you enjoy. No seriously. If you don't enjoy at least part of what you're doing you are going to be seriously miserable, because doing a work placement means that most of your time abroad will be spent, well, working. I knew that I wanted to work in a theatre so that's where I started looking. You also need to consider whether you are prepared to work for free. Remember that paid internships will be extremely competitive and you will be up against some pretty competent native speakers. I decided that gaining experience was more important to me than earning money and I managed to do get by with my Erasmus Grant and student loan. There were a few disasters but I'll talk about those later on.

2) Once you've decided on the general working environment you're interested in, make a list of cities/places that appeal to you. I had three potentials for my first Germany placement: Düsseldorf, Leipzig or Rostock. I then made a list of all the theatres that were in those cities and sent out an email and CV to each of them. When I was applying for a job in Italy, things got a bit desperate and I started looking for anything that was available. This might happen to you, but roll with it.

3) Make sure you have a CV that is appropriate to the country you are applying to work in. Germans, for example, have completely different expectations for CVs and Cover Letters than England. Your university should prepare you for this, but do make time to go and see an academic tutor to make sure everything is as accurate as possible. I also advise adjusting your Cover Letter for each place you apply for so that you are really clear about why you want to work for that particularly company/institution.

3) When preparing for the interview, make a list of phrases in case you get tongue-tied. Also write a few key sentences explaining why you want to work with that particular company (so do your research!) Try not to panic, because that will only make it harder to speak in another language. Speak slowly, clearly and concentrate on what your interviewer is asking/saying to you.

If you manage to get a work placement CONGRATULATIONS. That's a massive achievement! Here are a few tips to help you get off to a good start.

1) CHECK THE DRESS CODE. Do this before you board the plane or pack your suitcase. I stupidly forgot and turned up with a suitcase full of jackets, skirts and smart trousers, when in fact everyone was wearing jeans *face palm*  So to avoid extra costs and embarrassment, send your employer a quick, polite email to clarify what is appropriate.

2) Turn up on your first day with all the necessary ERASMUS forms so that you can complete them and get them signed. Try to send them back as soon as possible. This will alleviate any University admin stress and will allow you to concentrate on enjoying your work placement. If you're not being paid for your work, make sure you are absolutely clear on your working hours.

3) BE BOLD. You will be nervous. I spent my first day at the theatre cowering behind a corner whilst everyone chatted and greeted one another, but as soon as I made a step towards the crowd, someone came and said hello and that's when the fun started. So be nervous but DON'T BE AFRAID. If there are other interns GO AND MAKE FRIENDS WITH THEM, they may not seem like your type of people to begin with, but after a few lunchtime chats and drinks after work you will find your language skills significantly improving. Friendship takes work and when I look back on my experience I am so glad that I made the effort to invest time into the other interns I was working with because they are now some of my most precious friends.

4) ASK FOR HELP. If you don't understand something just say. There is nothing worse than sitting at your desk trying to look busy when in fact you have no idea what you're supposed to be doing. Avoid wasting your time and take the chance to learn a new word or phrase. Most people will be sympathetic to your position and will respect your honesty. 

Adventures with the Cheese-Fondue Girls

About a week or so after my arrival in Berlin, my classmate Connie invited me to her old WG for a Cheese Fondue evening. She was excited for me to meet her friends and I was lonely, so it was a rather fitting arrangement. I remember it was a Thursday evening, warm and fragrant, as we piled into the tiny kitchen drinking wine and hot tea to prepare our stomachs for the oozing, richness of the Swiss fondue. We all seemed to click instantly and wedge ourselves into conversations and future plans with ease and excitement. After a month of aching loneliness, I felt energetic and awake again. Since that evening we have been to plays, contemporary dance shows, bars with tiny chairs, opening evenings at the Art School, had brunches, cinema trips and danced the night away in empty Warehouses and Ballrooms across the city. They have become known among my family and friends as the Cheese Fondue Girls, which probably isn't the best name for them, but alas the name has stuck and in some ways I've grown incredibly fond of it.  One thing I love about them is how intentional they are in their friendships. They are always on the look-out for fun things to do together and every single time I've met up with them, a beautiful new life experience has been formed. Like me, they are hungry for experiences, culture, knowledge and fun.  As this is my last week in Berlin, I thought I'd compile a few highlights as well as recommend a few cool places to hang out in the city.

Dancing at Klärchen's Ballhaus

Every Wednesday is a swing dance night. We stupidly skipped the beginner's class and went straight for the freestyle, twirling and skipping around. It was still a hoot and we were all inspired to actually learn how to do it properly.

Universität der Kunst Rundgang

One of the girls is studying Architecture at the UDK so we went along to what is essentially an open evening to check out her work and feel suitably arty. In typical Berlin fashion, a simple open evening turns into the hottest joint in town with all the varying departments transforming themselves into different types of bars and clubs.

Brunch

I went to brunch twice with these girls. Once to Tassenkuchen where we had yummy gluten-free pancakes and once to Cafe Vux where we had a completely Vegan breakfast. Both were delicious and memorable.

Some Random Warehouse Party

The night I finished my essay I was so pumped that, instead of going straight to sleep, I hopped on a train to join Babsi, Conny and Lotte somewhere on the Spree where a spontaneous party had popped up out of nowhere. Think Lena Dunham meets Hipster meets Berlin and you'll kind of get the picture. I'm not usually the party type, but I had such a good time and managed to stay awake till dawn (my Bristol housemates would be proud!) 

My Cheap and Cheerful Berlin Guide

With the interrailing season upon us and the next bunch of year abroadies about to set off on their adventures, I thought it would make sense to write a post about the MISSABLE and the UNMISSABLE parts of Berlin. Unfortunately I haven't made it to many of the museums or usual tourists hotspots, so I can't offer any wisdom on those, but I can give you some helpful tips and point you in the direction of good coffee and the true 'Berliner Vibe'.

First Things First:

1. Wear good shoes. Berlin is massive and you will find yourself walking miles and miles between attractions and Ubhan stops.
2. That said, if you want to get somewhere quickly DO use the Ubahn. What might look close by on the map, is probably a twenty minute walk away, plus the Germans have an annoying habit of sticking up roadworks and building sites in the most unexpected places. 
3. Make sure you have cash on hand. Most places don't take card and if they do it's usually only EC cards (the German debit card) so don't get caught out. I have on so many occasions and it's super annoying. 
4. If you're going in the Summer, take a bottle of water with you. Berlin gets very hot in the summer months and doesn't really do air conditioning. For some reason, bottled water is more expensive than beer, so to save time, money and energy, carry one with you.

Walks:

If you're doing Berlin on a budget but still want to get a historical impression of the city then here are two walks that aren't too long and really show off the most famous landmarks.

1. Get the train to the Hauptbahnhof and leave on the Starbucks side of the station. Walk over Washingtonplatz towards the Spree river. You'll eventually come the Reichstag, then the Bradenburg Gate, Unter den Linden, Humbolt University and if you keep walking down the street you'll come to the Cathedral and Alexanderplatz. In the Summer this is best done in the early morning or early evening, otherwise it gets a bit hot and crowded. Plus the light is gorgeous! It takes about an hour to an hour and a half, but it's well worth it.
2. If you want to explore the former East Berlin without paying a penny, then get off at Alexanderplatz and walk straight down Karl-Marx allee. You'll get a good idea of the communist architecture as well as pass the Karl Marx bookshop that was used in the film The Lives of Others. Turn off at Warschauer Strasse and if you fancy a break, grab a drink at the kooky Michelberger Hotel before heading down to the East Gallery to look at the wall and the famous murals.

Food:

1. If you're looking for a general restaurant area then I recommend getting off at Eberswalder Strasse (U2) , Rosenthaler Platz (U9) or Moritiz Platz (U9) if you wander around those areas you're bound to find something wonderful to eat.
2. For a cheap authentic Bratwurst you can do no better than a €1.50 job from one of the street vendors at Alexanderplatz.
3. Berlin is also famous for it's Donor and Falafel. My particular favourites are on Oranienstrasse or around Kottbusser Tor (U9) in Kreuzberg. The more Turkish on the menu, the better the falafel. 
4. Henne is like the vintage Nando's of Berlin. It boasts an impressive clientele including President Kennedy. It's sits just off Moritz Platz (U8) and serves half a chicken with a choice of potato salad or sauerkraut.
5. If you find yourself on the West Side or in one of the tourist areas and are reluctant to pop in to Mcdonalds or Burger King, allow me to recommend Vapiano. It's a healthy fast food Italian restaurant that is very popular among Germans and is very reasonably priced. For the Gluten-free among you, their salads are delicious! The one on Potsdamerplatz is particularly nice.

Drink:

1. The Prater Biergarten on Kastanienallee is very cool and authentic. Grab a beer, sit on one of the benches and feel like a REAL German. (nearest Ubahn Station Eberswalderstrasse)
2. There's a great, seemingly nameless bar opposite the Gethsemane Church near Schönhauserallee. They have tiny little chairs and benches out the front, one tiny menu, which is handwritten in a black moleskine and serve the most delicious cocktails for €5. Try the Hugo-Rouge and watch the sunset over the street.
3. If you're in the centre then Mein Haus Am See on Rosenthalerstrasse is another great bar, with mismatched furniture and a great choice of drinks. It can get very busy but the atmosphere is great.
4. One of my favourite bars in the city and the one which I take pretty much everyone too, is Luzia on Oranienstrasse. It has large windows, with padded window sills so you can sit and dangle your legs into the street, a piano, wall art, comfy sofas and lots and lots of candles. It can get busy, but is well worth a visit for a glass of Riesling and a great night with friends. 
5. Another option is to buy beer from the supermarket or a Späti (newsagents) and sit in a park with friends. This is definitely the cheapest option, with a bottle of Berliner Pilsner costing roughly 50 cents. 
6. If you're looking for a good cup coffee, then please by all means read through my Best Coffee in Berlin posts. However, if you're short of time then Bonanza Coffee Heroes and Five Elephant Coffee are a must for Flat Whites, Cappuccinos and Filter, whereas St.Oberholz wins on the iced coffee front. 

The Unmissable:

1. Fleamarket Mauerpark  This is the biggest flea market in the city and takes place on Sundays from 7am-5pm. It strikes a great balance between vintage furniture, second hand clothes, handmade items and excellent food. There is also a lot of live music, with local artists busking between the different stalls and in the afternoon be sure to head to the Bearpit to watch or perhaps participate in the Karaoke party!
2. Open Air Cinema There are lots of these that pop up all over the city. I went to the one in Kreuzberg to see Creatures of the Southern Wild and it was fantastic. For €5 you get to sit in a comfy deckchair and watch a film on a huge outdoor screen. There's also beer, popcorn and bratwurst for sale. Most of the films are shown in their original language with subtitles - so you're sure to find something you can watch!
3. The Wall there are lots of 'wall bits' to choose from, but whatever you do, you can't leave Berlin without having visited one of them. It helps you understand a little bit why Berlin is like it is and there's nothing more powerful than coming face to face with with history.
4. Brunch Sunday morning turns Berlin into Brunch city. My particular favourites were Cafe Rix (for €8 all you can eat) the vegan brunch at Cafe Vux (€9 for all you can eat and you won't even notice it's vegan - I promise!) and the blueberry pancakes at Cafe Tassenkuchen (if you ring up the day before, you can even get them gluten-free!)
5. Garage this amazing second hand store at Nollendorf Platz is absolutely incredible. High quality vintage clothes for a reasonable price. They also sell clothes by the kilo. Pretty much all the clothes I bought whilst living in Berlin were from here!
6. Lakes when the city gets too much, then definitely head out to one of the lakes surrounding Berlin. I lived next to Plotzensee, which was absolutely gorgeous to swim in. But if you fancy something more impressive, then Tegelsee and Wannsee are just a 20 minute train ride away. So grab your swimmers, a yummy picnic and enjoy a day of relaxation. 
7. Photo Booths Keep your eyes peeled for the tiny retro photo booths, where you can get a strip of black and white pictures for €2. So much fun.